Tasmania (Sep21-Nov30 2022)
Updated: Nov 27, 2022
We intended to spend 6 weeks in Tassie in January 2021 but the Victorian border was shut a few days before we were due to leave. So we've got unfinished business in the "Apple Isle".
Contents
Huon Valley (skipped for next time!)
The Route
Our Tassie route is well defined. Time with Mick and Fiona in Lonnie and then do the lap comprising Cradle Mountain, Strahan, Mt Field, Bruny Island, Hobart, Swansea, St Helens, return to Lonnie and then out via Devonport on the trans-tasman ferry.
Our route to and from Melbourne is unplanned albeit we're keen to park in Port Macquarie on the beach for a wee while!
Going to catch up with Shazza, Kiwi mates and the Mundi Mundi Mob in Sydney on the way down.
Sep21st depart Brisbane via Port Macquarie and Sydney. Then head for the ferry in Melbourne.
Port Macquarie. (21Sep-25Sep)
Dinner at the pub overlooking the harbour. A "little wet" here today but still heading out to walk the coastal trail (16km return).
And tonight The Stunned Mullet awaits! Stunned Mullet was sensational. Fault-less service, the Waghyu A.mazing..... we return for lunch on Saturday :}:}
Visited the Koala Hospital. Entirely run by volunteers. The work they undertake with our National Icon is incredible. We've sponsored a Koala, here he is below.
Lunch at the Whalebone Wharf. Definitely worth a visit.
A little damp exploring.
And the sun finally made an appearance on Saturday.
Sydney (25Sep-2Oct)
We stayed at the Lane Cove Discovery Caravan Park. Sensational. Large van sites. Brilliant studio cottage for Shazza. Close to the North Ryde train station (30minutes to Circular Quay). Is located in the National Park and sadly we did not have time for the various walks and riding trails. Too much else to do.
Monday arrival and sadly could not attend the Ride Holidays dinner that evening as they had a COVID outbreak.
This is where we told Shazza we had booked as we know she adores camping under green canvas.
We let Shazza off the hook. This is the cabin in Lane Cove caravan park directly across from our rig. Great park. Would stay here again.
Tuesday Shazza arrived at Lane Cove. Our most awesome US mate. It's been 3 years so we had lots of catching up to do. Headed into Darling Harbour. Also caught up with Dave Parsons (similarly awesome!) and we enjoyed a long lunch at The Malaya.
Wednesday we were blessed with the rain holding off allowing us to explore The Rocks, do a Bridge Climb and then head across on the Manly Ferry.
Our romantic video from the top of the Sydney Harbour Bridge.
Thursday we headed West. up to the Three Sisters, enjoyed the Scenic Rail and then lunch at Echoes Restaurant (must return here to stay).
The cable cars. Great fun. "What goes down!"
Must come up!
Friday saw the rain return as we did a Beach crawl from the Sydney Heads, Bondi, Coogee, Maroobra and down to La Perouse. Then visited Dave and Julie , and Gail and Steve. This fabulous foursome adopted us for the Mundi Mundi Bash and invited us to stay at their place. A fantastic night, much wine consumed, tales told and just marvellous to catch up.
The Sydney Rat Pack.... sorry Gail. I should have taken photos that night. HOWEVER we have "borrowed" your umbrella and taken it on holiday!
Saturday return to Lane Cove. Readying the van for our next leg. Washing done. Sun shining. Catching up on emails.
Loved our return to Sydney. And definitely on our return list for our trip to Victoria in late 2023.
SINCERE THANKS to Dave, Julie, Steve and Gail.... love your friendship and very much looking forward to catching up again.
Strange things do happen in Sydney.
Goulburn and Yea (2-5Oct)
Catch up with Therese Duncan and possibly Darren in Goulburn on our way south. Goulburn put on the Lilac Festival for us. Lots of interesting things in the town park. Gorgeous historical buildings. Dinner with Therese and T at the Paragon Cafe. Been in operation since 1940. Therese insisted on two bottles }}
And found a car for Mick and Fiona. Beautifully restored.
Goulburn was celebrating today.
Next stop is Yea (590km) with an early morning start. Yea for a full day of cycling on the Great Victorian Rail Trail. Then off to the ferry terminal for our trip to Tassie.
Found the Yea caravan park on WikiCamps, highly recommended and definitely will return. Friendly managers, big sites, very clean facilities. Local shops n hotel a few minutes walk. And easy access to the Great Victorian Rail Trail.
The trail is solid gravel. Countryside is spectacular. Lots of well designed bridges. We rode Yea to Yarck. Found I had left the gas inflator, gas, tyre levers behind in Brisbane. Thankfully the Yarck bike shop had all we needed. Small shop but superb selection and fairly priced.
Fabulous ride, loved every kilometre and both keen to return.
Off to Tassie on the 730pm sailing on the 5th.
Oct6th to 10th Launceston
Spirit of Tasmania
Expensive at $2700+ return with a cabin (overnight) for Triton and the Van BUT so well worth the effort. Boarding was seamless. VERY PLEASED the port is moving to Geelong where there is parking well in advance of boarding unlike Melbourne. Facilities on board fabulous. Our cabin was spacious, immaculate, large windows facing forward.
Crossing was ummm rough! 30-40knot winds, 3 metre seas, but we were suitably anaesthetised by the time the ship got underway.
Mick and Fiona in Lonnie
Had a fabulous stay with Mick and Fiona at their home in Launceston. "The Shed" was definitely a superb place to look at their collection of cars and memorabilia. The pool table is the source of much competitive good humour. The TV with their collection of outstanding music DVDs. We over indulged on their wonderful hospitality.
Launceston Gorge Trek
Not as long a trek as we normally like, but were time challenged with lunch at Josef Cromey vineyard booked in. Definitely will return to experience the longer treks.
Here are before the flood and during shots. We did the walk before and the after photo was taken by someone during.
Scotsdale and the NE Tasmanian Rail Trail
The first of our key Tassie rides. Brought the gravel bikes with us to enjoy the rail trails. 51km return. Fabulous!
Here's a taste of what the Scotsdale Rail Trail offers. We loved it. 6km gradual descent then 24k+ ascent through rainforest, cuttings.... lots of historical plaques. No-one else on the trail.
Wining and Dining
Tasmania is renowned for its fine food and wines. Launceston is no exception. Mud Bar, Josef Cromey Vineyard, the local pub, all fabulous. Seems we've joined the wine club at Josef Cromey (their merlot and pinot will arrive regularly!).
Oct 10th to 16th Cradle Mountain
Last time we were in Cradle we had ridden with Kirstie Broun, Paul, Thommo and others from Devonport. Up Sefana. Torrential rain and lightening.
This time was far different. Very pleasant drive up from Launceston via Table Cape for the Tulips (thanks for recommending Fiona).
We found a new pet.
His name is Al Pacca.
And then took the back road to Cradle Mountain. Triton loves gravel.
Tulips at Table Cape
The photos tell the story. Just beautiful.
Walk 1: Dove Lake (upper circuit) including Hanson's Peak.
Perfect day. Overcast. No rain. Annual Tassie National Parks pass gave us unlimited access to ALL PARKS including Cradle Mountain and the Shuttle Bus.
Walk 2: Cradle Valley Boardwalk, Waldheim Hut and Wombats
This walk is NOT heavily advertised but is simply a MUST DO. Starts at the Rangers Hut and then progresses upstream to Dove Lake. The landscape starts off with Moss Forest, grass plains, Rain forest, Ghost Gums, sparkling streams.... just incredible.
Took a side trip to Waldheim Hut and discovered a huge wombat colony grazing.
Walk 3: Cradle Boardwalk Return and Wombat Valley
Like everywhere else in Australia we've had LOTS of rain. Has not stopped us walking. We're well equipped with wet weather gear, thermal layers and restorative Mulled Wine on return to camp.
We are thrilled we had such good weather for Walk 1 around the peaks.
That said, walking in teeming rain, 5C and below, still warm, keeps the heart ticking over.
The Moss Forest is near the start of the walk and is just mesmerizing. Then changes into open forest.
After reaching Ronney Creek we then headed out on the Overland Track searching for Wombats. This is their key habitat.
We were SO IMPRESSED by the number of people headed out to tackle the Overland Track. Despite the weather their spirits were high and imbued with outstanding determination. T and I placed the Overland Track, 78km over 6 days on our Bucket List.
A most impressive young lass was walking alone. Headed out trekking the Overland. Then a couple from Singapore, lovely people stopped for a chat. A BIG GROUP on a guided tour on our trek two days back. WOW.
THIS IS A MUST DO FOR THERESA AND I.
Tomorrow is Saturday our last full day. Hoping for good weather as plan to do the first leg of the Overland Track up to Crater Lake and get as close to Cradle Mountain as we can from that side. That said, the weather is not looking good. Such is life, we've got a few other treks planned in the rain and maximum 6C tomorrow.
The weather here changes so quickly.
Walk 4: Ranger Station Forest and King Billy Tree Walk
Lots of rain forecast so out walking early. Explored the walks around Peppers. Equally fabulous. Thought about Pencil Pine track but waterlogged and muddy.
Two videos of our walk today. Discovered Adobe Rush for video editing (fabulous). I already used Photoshop Express for photos.
The first is our King Billy Tree Walk.
This is our Ranger Station Forest Walk, equally fabulous.
Decided we had a few hours free to booked into the "feeding" at Devils @ Cradle.
Informative, entertaining exposure to Devils and Quolls. Got some great photos and learned a lot about our "carnivore" Marsupials.
Had a great time in Cradle Mountain and we brave the flooded road closures tomorrow on our way back to Launceston to collect the van.
Cradle gave us snow. In fact, Cradle has not disappointed with the variety of weather. Staying at Peppers was a wise choice, service is exceptional, room very cosy and no TV. Yay.
Final morning and we awoke to find a beautiful dusting of snow. I've only touched snow once and Theresa similar. So donned our gear and headed out to enjoy.
Oct 16th to 22nd Strahan
Mad dash from Cradle back to Lonnie to collect the van. Avoided flooded areas. Then retraced our steps to Strahan via Burnie and Zeehan. Stunning drive. And loved the ambience of Strahan.
Our adventures are the Gordon River Boat cruise and tomorrow the Wilderness Rail.
Gordon River cruise
Wilderness Rail
Old mining town, pristine forest, hand hewn railway, steam driven locomotive, restored carriages, rack and pinion rail, fully catered..... our kind of trip! Fabulous.
Have to cut short our visit as T needs to get back to Brisbane for a week as a much loved relative has passed.
Oct 22nd to 25th Mt Field (left of field camping)
Have to postpone this until next visit.
Very nice drive from Strahan through Queenstown to Hobart. Places to visit our return we spotted included Derwent River, Mt Field (obviously) and a couple of the tiny towns we passed through with historical interest.
Theresa returns on the 25th. YAY.
Oct 25th to 31st Cloudy Bay Cabin - Bruny Island
WOW. WOW. WOW.
We certainly experienced all of the changes in weather the southern ocean could throw at us. And Cloudy Bay is certainly aptly named. We had two days of sunshine, then everything else in between. But we had a lot of fun.
The Cloudy Bay Cabin is at the eastern end of the bay, no 240v power, purely 12v solar and that did not cause us any issue given our van experience. Plus the Triton has a 240v invertor.
Here's our range of days.
We did get flooded in by Sheep Shaggers Creek. Were not prepared to wade across to test depth of water and flow. We had sufficient food and beverages so no need to get wet. And it would be cold.
Water went down in two days.
Despite the rain we had a fabulous time on Bruny Island. Didn't do as much walking as we hoped. But such is life. Read a lot of books. Cooked some fabulous meals. Maybe a little too much wine. Slept in. Chatted, laughed, stoked the fire, filled our glasses with more wine.
The Cape Bruny Lighthouse looked clear so we headed off. Ten minutes later, as is the custom in Tassie, the sun disappeared and pelting rain drove in from the Antarctic! so we donned rain jackets and headed forth to explore.
Another day, this time no rain! We explored Coal Bay, the Neck, found the Chocolate factory, the Honey Pot, the awesome Cheese factory and then went to lunch at a local vineyard called Premium Wines.
The Neck was quite spectacular. And then the rain found us.
And a highlight was a visit to the Bakery. It was recommended to us by a friend, "a quirky place you must visit, and remember to take coins". So we found the bakery. The BEST sourdough we've ever tasted. And met the Baker's Son delivering fresh loaves.
Next time we visit, we've found another remote spot. Overlooks Cloudy Bay but NO creeks!
Thoroughly enjoyed Bruny Island. Definitely worth the effort and such a short distance from Hobart.
Oct 31st to 6th Nov Hobart
Five full days in Hobart. Lots of interesting historical places to visit. Amazing national parks.
Mt Wellington
Sensational. Beautiful. Rugged. Dominating. Could spend weeks exploring the trails.
Yes I did use Photoshop to remove people and cars! AND definitely small children.
We MUST RETURN to explore the walks.
Richmond
We knew this was a town of historical significance. But did not expect to spend a wonderful day roaming the streets and enjoying the history. Plus the antique shops. The galleries. The pub. Gorgeous churches.
The Catholic Church was a "stand-out" for us. We felt God's presence in this place. Peaceful. Joyous. Very moving.
AND
Also the pub with the Halloween decorations
Also the myriad of historical buildings
Also the art gallery where we invested moderately
Also the antique shoppe were T fell in love with this 1860 rocking chair. T (unlike me) does NOT purchase on a whim. Particularly "valued" purchases. BUT T fell in love with his piece. It called to her. Thus, there is a story. So far we know:
It was purchased from a home in Sandy Bay
Using my innate telepathic talent I discern the home was originally owned by a successful whaling captain. He had the rocking chair hand made for his beloved wife to enjoy. Sitting in her glass enclosed parlour overlooking the Derwent River awaiting the return of her husband from whaling. Bonded servants plied her with wine and food, ensured the hot coals were placed in her bed warmer, chardonnay was served with dinner. A fine Botrytis with dessert.... everything she needed.
Much like me ensuring T's every desire is met!
It's a damned expensive piece of furniture, transported by hand-picked elves to Brisbane (must be given the cost!) and then to find a reputable person(s) to French polish and upholster.
BUT I LOVE IT TOO. It is simply exquisite and will be a wonderful piece in our lounge for my much beloved T to enjoy.
Mt Field and Lake Peddar from Hobart
Oddly, we have sunny days forecast. And Melbourne Cup Day for us was a fabulous excuse to head for Mt Field and Lake Peddar. We were going to stay at Left Of Field caravan park, and saw this on our way through. WOW. Fabulous, lots of space and very well equipped.
We also had 3 full days of walks planned but with a one day trip had to select the "best" and include the 200k+ return trip to Lake Peddar. So chose the Three Waterfalls Walk. Awesome. Simply awesome. AllTrails certainly helped with researching the walk, deciding to head anti-clockwise (get the big climb over first) and tracking the walk.
Mt Field has a variety of walks, we did the Three Falls Circuit.
Whilst Lake Peddar and the Gordon Dam were around 90k one way, the drive there was spectacular.
We're so pleased we invested the time to drive to Lake Peddar and the Gordon Dam. Definitely understand why people fought hard to protect this unique wilderness area.
And a little of the Gordon Dam.
Here's a video of Mt Fields 3 Waterfalls Circuit and Lake Pedder.
MUST RETURN as unfinished business with a number of walks.
Mona Modern Art Gallery
VERY INTERESTING VISIT, our first time. We were warned that it "was different". Not the "art" T and I are used to. Definitely would not purchase anything for home display AND many would NOT accept as a gift. Frankly, found many of the displays either depressing, angry, sexist, blasphemous (and we're not strictly Religious), ordinary yet intended to offend... in short, would not visit again.
The Restaurant HOWEVER WAS SENSATIONAL. Would definitely recommend. Food, wine and service simply E.xceptional (left a 20% tip).
The Source Restaurant was outstanding. Check out the "grass" used as a table cloth. Each table had a display beneath the glass. Ours was a rare mineral worth $40 per thumbnail full. I could not open the glass with my oyster knife:}:}
Standout exhibits for me were the Waterfall and the Phat Car. Nothing else.
Wandering Hobart Town
We easily parked during a week day on Constitution dock. Needed to relocate every two hours to a different Easy Park location. Picked up a self directing map from the information office (wonderfully helpful team).
Lots of standouts BUT the Mawson's Exhibit (whilst small) took us over an hour to explore (sensational).
MUST visit the Salamanca Whisky Bar with Paul and Suzanne in 2024!!
Opposum and Mortimer Bay
T headed to Brisbane for a few days for a family bereavement. I ventured out once (got stuck into work the other days). Decided to explore south-east from Hobart. A few kilometres out of town leads to wild places. Love Tassie!
Constitution Dock and Battery Point
Hobart has got 4 days of sunny weather forecast so ditched our plan to hike in the Huon Valley. Heading to Salamanca Markets and Battery Point on Saturday, and YES have a waterfront restaurant booked for lunch.
Constitution Dock and Salamanca Markets. The Markets held each Saturday are fabulous.
The Battery Point walk was definitely worth the effort. Beautiful buildings.
We headed off to Swansea but called in on a couple of historic towns on the way.
Off to Swansea via Oatlands and Ross
Ross was amazing. We didn't explore Oatlands so on our bucket list.
6th to 11th Nov Swansea
We caught up with Mick and Fiona in Swansea and got taken prisoner, forced to endure a fabulous vineyard (Mayfield), strolled through the town (Fiona grew up here and knows so much history) and then off to the local pub. AWESOME!
The local IGA is worth a visit. It has EVERYTHING.
Had lunch twice at Saltshaker Restaurant. The chilli oysters, quinoa fish and the ribs are out of this world. Highly recommended. Enjoyed a Milton Pinot Noir as no time to visit the vineyard just out of town.
Mayfield Vineyard was a true surprise in terms of calibre of wine, food and the view.
Dropped in on the Devils Corner vineyard and this is definitely worth a visit. Excellent wine. Better still they have a seafood restaurant, we tried oysters two ways and then mussels two ways. Washed down with a sparkling wine and their premium chardonnay. Wish I had brought the van so we could stay longer.
Very much enjoyed Swansea and there's still lots more to see. Maybe next time.
Maria Island Cycling
WOW. WOW. WOW. Cycled down the coastal road which was well graded. Explored Frenchs Farm, Encounter Bay and the Convict Cells. Then took the inland track back. Rough ungraded gravel, mud, sand, creeks, fallen trees, 18% spikes.... best ride ever!!
Freycinet, Wineglass Bay and Hazards Beach
A tough hike up to the lookout, lots of stairs, then down to Wineglass Bay. Trekked the entire length of the beach which provided spectacular views back to Freycinet. Then navigated the mud across the Isthmus to Hazards Beach. In our opinion Hazards Beach is far better than Wineglass Bay. That said, both are simply beautiful.
11th to 16th Nov St Helens
St Helens
Fabulous town. The Wharf Restaurant was outstanding. Discovered Priory Ridge Vineyard by accident and spent a very pleasant afternoon with the owners Julie and David. And a trip on a very rainy day out to the Pub in the Paddock did not disappoint.
We tested the Starlink this trip. Fabulous. Speeds as fast as our NBN at home.
We enjoyed Pub in the Paddock. And consumed our wines and lunch leaving nothing to share with the resident Pig!
Bay of Fires
One of the keys to Tassie is taking advantage of good weather to head out to explore. We changed plans and headed out to explore from St Helens up through the Bay of Fires to Anson Bay and the lighthouse.
The Bay of Fires is named by a French explorer seeing the fires lit by the Aboriginals along the coast.
It is a beautiful coastline, white sand beaches, clear water and marvellous rock formations.
Then we took a fire trail shortcut to Anson's Bay road with the intent of exploring that bay and further to the Lighthouse. We decided to turn around 500m of our objective owing to the deep mud on the track. With another 4WD we would have been more confident if in need of a recovery.
We were booked to ride from Blue Tier down to Swimcart Beach but the heavy rain meant the track was too dangerous for us. Darn.
Blue Tier: Australia Hill walk
Very wet underfoot. But sensational.
16th Nov Launceston
Headed back to Lonnie to spend time with Mick, Fiona and family. Might have had a few rums with them both. And a final lunch at the Mud Bar.
Launceston Floods
Fortunately we left Lonnie just prior to the floods. But did the gorge walk before and here are some flood photos for comparison. Wow.
Depart Devonport on the 17th for Melbourne on the ferry
A much smoother crossing on the Spirit of Tasmania. And the Geelong port is fabulous.
18th arrive Geelong. Head for Ballarat, Temora, Dubbo, Warwick and home on the 30th.
Off the boat and headed directly for Ballarat. Day one was sunny. The rest of the time was bitterly cold, horizontal rain.... no bike riding nor walking. Darn.
Very much enjoyed our visit to the towns of Maldon and Daylesford. The Attwood vineyard with wine and food is worth a return.
Had some fabulous restaurant visits and very, very good to catch up with Matt and Claudia.
Then headed off a day earlier than planned. Floods in western NSW meant cancelling our planned route back via Temora, Dubbo and Warwick. Did two big legs. Ballarat to Goulburn. And next day to Brisbane (1100km). The coast road is fabulous. Dual lane all the way. Easy driving.
The Umbrella on Holiday
Theresa accidentally "borrowed" Gail's umbrella after a most enjoyable day spent at Dave and Julie's home. May have consumed a little more wine than anticipated. This is the story of Gail's "umbrella".
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