top of page
Writer's pictureMark Grahame

South Australia (Feb21-May6 2022)

Updated: Aug 13, 2022

Our LONGEST TRIP at 11 weeks.

Just love the adventure.

WOW no reliable phone nor internet for 4 weeks!


Our Pivotel-Inmarsat satellite just did not work on this trip so left with satellite messaging via ZOLEO and GARMIN INREACH only!


Table of Contents


Departing Brisbane and Shanty on the Namoi




February 21st we depart en-route to Narrabri, West Wyalong, Phil's Bend, headed south to Port Fairy, Mt Gambier, The Mud House, KI, Hahndorf, Port Lincoln, Willow Springs, Iga Warta, Mt Gipps Station, Trilby Station, Charleville, Chinchilla and then return to Brisbane.


CHANGES:

Headed to Port Fairy instead of Berri. Had a fabulous spot on the Murray River and just thought we would head south. Left Mt Gambier a few days earlier to explore the coast road. Ended up in Wellington on the Murray River (great spot).

Skipped Trilby Station and went to Mundi Mundi Bash instead.

Extended to include a wind down in Mooloolooba.


Exiting Brisbane

Thank heavens for our van mover!!!!

And a view from the cockpit in the Triton. Very comfortable way to travel. Tyre pressure monitoring for Triton and Van on bottom left. HEMA satellite navigation on mid console. Rear view camera monitor replaces mirror.




21st-22nd February overnight stops in Narrabri and West Wyalong

Absolutely fabulous overnight in Narrabri at Shanty on Namoi Camping (cattle property). Our hosts Bill and Fiona were very welcoming. Great spot to off-road camp. No facilities. Lots of room. Great views. Direct access to the river for fishing, swimming, etc.


Shanty on Namoi has an automated cattle gate opener.


Oddly the gate opener has "attitude" but thankfully follows us and all gates are automatically opened.


West Wyalong was "ordinary". But safe, clean, comfortable, drive through site, power and water. Great place for an overnight stop.

23rd to 27th Feb Phil's Bend near Euston on the Murray River

Chose Phil's Bend based on recommendations on Hip Camp. And NOT disappointed. The owner Phil is an absolute character but also a very caring and welcoming host. Met us on arrival. Changed camp sites to a far better location. Popped in for a chat. Shared his Honey with us (yumm) and brought us grapes off the vine.


Lots of advice regarding places to visit and eat.


This camp site is "heavenly".


LONG DRIVES to get to this point. Roughly 1500km+ to Phil's Bend. Rolling hills and paddocks to West Wyalong. And then the country changed dramatically. NOT what we expected heading into the Murray (we thought highly vegetated).


Here's our campsite (#6) at Phil's Bend.



And some photos to share.


Dawn on the Murray (my video does not do justice!). My first Damper on our Camp Oven... outstanding and lasted about 4 days.


Day trip to Lake Mungo

Wow. 140k dirt road out and and the same back on corrugated dirt roads. Lowered tyre pressures to 28/32 made for a comfortable ride. Another 70k in the park. Corrugations. Dust. Dry. Hot. Windy. WELL WORTH the trip!

This is a place where Mungo Man and Woman were discovered. The area has been inhabited for over 50,000 years..... generations.

Once an inland lake over 15 metres high in water. And dry for the last 20,000 years. EXCEPT this year when floods washed away roads in the park and resulted in road closures when we arrived. Still got to see the key sites.

The park information office has a very comprehensive display of the region from a geographical, "first nation" culture, European settler and environmental perspective.

The landscape is amazing.

Exploring the old settler buildings with some you just do not want to enter owing to the presence of "slithery" beasties!

Headed off to the "dunes" and this place is unique.



27th Feb to 4th Mar changed to Port Fairy

We had booked another Murray camp site near Berri but decided we would never get a view as good as the one at Phil's Bend. And we were keen to explore the bottom end of the great ocean road.

So we picked Port Fairy purely based on Wikicamps reviews of the caravan park at the Gardens on the Moyne River. We were NOT disappointed. Asked for a remote spot and we got one. PERFECT!


Found some painted silos on the way there.



What a fabulous town. Everyone so friendly. Got some walks in and a bike ride.


Visited the Irish village of Koroit. Had a Guiness at the local pub which offers "husband minding" services and a meal package.


Took the drone for another spin (Mavic SE).


First few days were overcast but the last several just brilliant. Got in a bike ride on the rail trail between Port Fairy and Warrnambool. Uphill all the way to Koroit (2-3% for 17km). But very pleasant. Gravel is superb and the road bikes handled easily.

On our return we then explored Port Fairy on the bikes. Found this gorgeous church. Many of the homes here are original and just sensational.


Here's a video snip from the Rail Trail. We really enjoyed this spin.


T's temptation in Warrnambool. Did she?




4th to 10th Mar Mt Gambier

DEFINITELY COLD. And lots of wind. The kiwi cycling mates from Wellington would be very much at home here.

Mt Gambier the town of volcanoes, sink holes, MORE WIND, vineyards, glorious beaches close by.


Upstairs at Hollicks Vineyard was sensational. Great service, food and matching wines.


Did a 14k trek around the "lakes" and then headed into town in search of a pub!

There are spectacular views of the surrounding paddocks from all vantage points.

Found our son Thomas a Leopard tank but Australia Post could not package it up. Sunken garden in the centre of town plus loads more sink holes in the region.

And of course a delightful pub to while away the afternoon before trekking back up the hill.


Port MacDonnell and a visit to Little Blue Lake on the way.

Amazing coastal scenery looking west.

This is the southernmost point in Australia.... Cape Northumberland.



Overnight 10th Mar "Ye Olde Mud House" - amended to Wellington and Cape Jervois via the ocean road.

Decided we would depart Mt Gambier a few days earlier and explore the ocean road. Port MacDonnell (home of the Aussie rock lobster!), Beachport, Robe, Cape Jaffa, Kingston SE, Meningie and chose Wellington on the Murray for a few nights.

Ferry trip across to Wellington is FREE and fast. Also runs 24x7.

Met a fair dinkum Sheep Shearer and his wife (Wool Classer) in the pub at Kingston. He runs a crew of ten shearers and travels all over providing contract services. Top bloke.


We liked Robe very much. Similar to Hahndorf. Would stay at the Lakeside park. Or stay in Kingston (if there is no gales blowing like this trip!).

Last photo selection is from the Wellington Pub. The oldest country pub in South Australia. Fabulous seafood platter, cold beer and wine. Overlooks the Murray River and the afternoon entertainment is watching "newbies" try to moor their hired house boats. Fabulous laughs.

We did travel along the Lobster Coast and found this one.


A few photos along the way, following the Coorong.

And a couple of videos on the way to and in Wellington.




Whilst Wellington was small the people were super friendly, caravan park was spacious and the pub a great place to watch the Murray and enjoy the entertainment.


Next stop Cape Jervis for the night at the Big4 Park as we have an early ferry crossing to KI.


11th to 19th Mar Kangaroo Island

Didn't quite realise KI was so large until:

a. we viewed it from Cape Jervis! and

b. drove to the Western KI Caravan Park which is adjacent to the wilderness area. Roughly 120km from Penneshaw.

As we discovered KI is just gorgeous in terms of unspoilt natural landscapes, the wildlife, friendly people, SO MANY VINEYARDS(!), excellent restaurants, lots of things to do.

SEALINK provides a regular ferry service. Ferry is smaller than the one for Straddie. So trucks and 4wd/vans all reverse on. Daunting with spectators but the Sealink team are expert in providing guidance.

Roads on KI are very good even the large number of dirt roads.

And lots of local visitors at the Western KI park.


Here are some informative links:

SA National Parks book is brilliant.


Wilderness Area from Western KI

The Big4 Caravan Park is well run, great staff, big sites, clean. Also has fabulous cabins. Resident koalas in the trees. Roos wander through.

Our first walk was recently re-opened with limited numbers of hikers allowed. We hiked from the range station down the Rocky River Gorge to Snake Lagoon. Brilliant walk through the areas recovering.


Our next hiking adventure was Snake Lagoon to Cape du Couliec. Spectacular views. Tough hike. Trekking across rocky outcrops.

Sign markers well spaced apart so navigating by dead reckoning. Thanks heavens for Garmin Inreach Explorer with path, distance, direction et al. The group after us on the next day GOT LOST and headed inland.

Very windy. Sand on the beach so soft, every step an effort.

But the views are just spectacular.

Definitely worth the effort.


Admiralty Arch and Remarkable Rocks

Despite ending our walk at the Lighthouse overlooking Admiralty Arch our tiredness meant we saved these for the next day. So pleased we did as gave us much more time to explore and enjoy.


Here's a video of Admirals Arch and Remarkable rocks.





Seal Bay and Raptors Domain

WOW. Both in close proximity about 40k from the Wilderness KI Caravan Park where we stayed. Both worth the travel time and entry fee!


The Raptors Domain was the "best" bird show we have ever seen. Lots of audience participation in being able to hold the birds. Very informative presentation.


Loads of other attractions on KI,


19th to 27th Mar Hahndorf

Hahndorf and the Adelaide Hills are well know to us. Been here 7 years in a row pre-Covid and wer were made keen to return. A LOT daunted by the hills as we really had not undertaken the preparation. BUT surprisingly the riding and lots of walking held us in good stead and classics like Norton/Lofty, Lobethal and Corkscrew were conquered remarkably easily!

We stayed at the Hahndorf resort in our van. Fabulous elevated and level drive through site. Great park. Walking distance to the main street. And a gentle 12degree climb to our site. We've booked for next year!

Loved our visits to the Lane Vineyard.

Caught up with our good friends Sally and Shaun Caire at Glenelg. Love them both very much. And their wee puppies :}:]




27th Mar to 2nd Apr Port Lincoln

Port Lincoln was on our to do list simply because we had not been there before.

WOW.

Keen to return.

Great caravan park with elevated views.

Awesome Hotel Boston.

Outstanding restaurant at Peter Teakle vineyard. Desperate to return just to enjoy the food and the hospitality.

Whalers Way.... spectacular.

Coffin Bay oysters... yeah!




Day Trip (Mar30) swimming with Seals and diving with Great White Sharks

The Great White Sharks clearly missed the email requesting their presence! BUT the highlight of the day was swimming with the Sea Lions. They are curious, so fast and flexible underwater..... just gorgeous.

Theresa took the majority of the underwater photos and videos using a GOPRO.

Would definitely return to swim with them again.

The noises you can hear with the underwater videos with the Sea Lions are Theresa having chat with them, to which they clearly responded.



2nd to 8th Apr Willow Springs

The Flinders Ranges were recommended to us by a number of friends. And the time spent there did NOT disappoint.

We enjoy staying on cattle or sheep properties. Ideally well away from the homestead. No power nor water needed. Willow Springs gave us the camp site further away from the homestead. We were located in a gully away from everyone. No phone. No internet. Lots of sheep. Absolutely ideal!

We did their Skytrek 4Wd route. took us through gorges, flat lands, across dry rivers, visited 1800 shacks. Just incredible. the last 12k was a MONSTER in terms of off-road 4WD. 20% inclines and declines. Rock climbing in the 4wd. Transmission oil overheat warning....phark. No fuel warning...phark (caused because we climbed over 25% and the sensor got stuck!). Then blew a tyre. BUT photos were worth it!

Explored the Wilpena gorges. Day trip with a guide to Sacred Canyon. Up to Blinman, awesome pub, and the Great Wall.

Made an 120k return trip for groceries.

There's a dump point, clean water and internet at Wilpena Pound car park. Just saying! these things are important.


Videos of Willow Springs and surrounding Flinders Ranges

Thought we would document the drive in, our Camp Site at Willow Springs (just us in a gully), the Gorges, Great Wall of China....



Skytrek 4WD track

We also did the SkyTrek 4WD track. Wow. SkyTrek was not quite we expected. the first 70k was fabulous. Lots of gorges, old homes, spectacular vistas. The last 12k was VERY CHALLENGING.

Thanks heavens we had the 4wd training. That said:

  • 20%+ climbs and descents

  • Loose rock climbs and descents in hill descent mode

  • Transmission oil overheat warning.... phark

  • Low fuel limit warning.....fuel float got stuck at 25%!!!!

  • Tyre pressure reduction warning in #4. Phark. Thankfully a slow reduction and we made it back to camp. We do carry 2xspares for the triton and a repair kit. That said, this was a slow sidewall puncture and could not be fixed. $450 to replace and a 120k return trip to Hawker.

Very interesting that the whole region was an ancient seabed. We took photos of ripples in the shore.


Here's the video of our version of Skytrek!




4th Apr Heli-Camping Flinders Ranges

Sadly the pilot was COVID impacted. Darn.

8th to 13th Apr Iga Warta

A trip to the NT in July and visit Aboriginal sites inspired us to learn more about "first nation" culture. Research into SA showed that Iga Warta was highly recommended. Iga Warta is located in the northern flinders. Accessible via a well graded (sometimes) dirt road either from Copley or longer via Wilpena.

6 weeks before we left Brisbane the roads were closed owing to floods. So incredible the work done on the roads before our arrival. Sat at 90k on dirt in 4wd all the way!

Arrived at Iga Warta and warmly welcomed by Terrence. We were the only guests and invited to find any spot we liked to camp. Found a great spot, eventually found power and a place to get water. The facilities are run down but functional.

But the hosting by Terrence, his wife Josie and Clifford were exceptional.

We weren't sure about tours on offer. But whittled away the afternoon chatting about everything. Was just fabulous. Learnt lots about Iga Warta, his family the culture.

Then got asked to help Josie in the kitchen as expecting a tour group. so we lent a hand. and spent much time learning cooking secrets from Josie. Kangaroo lasagne. Simple fluffy scones. Local plants. Life in the bush. Just loved the afternoon and evening.

The tour group thought we were hired help and their guide treated us servants. Arrogant dick! Got on our own back a few days later.

Then a mob from NSW arrived. Dave and Julie, Steve and Gail. We shared a fire, had a few wines, a few more and then were invited to join them at Mundi Mundi music festival. So changed our schedule as these were really fun people to be with.

Toured rock paintings with them and Cliff. Cliff

Went to the Ochre pits and undertook a ceremony with them and Terry. VERY MOVING. Cannot quite explain but was one of those events which caused a life pause and rethink. Hit all of us. Very positively I might add. A very special event.

The tour group rejoined us for a trip to Red Gorge. Unlike rock paintings this featured rare engravings. Red Gorge was on a trade route. Cliff led the tour and his knowledge was based on that passed down. Just fabulous. we could have spent hours in the gorge. But the tour group had a schedule to keep.

Did Iga Warta meet our expectations?

YES MOST DEFINITELY. We spent quality time with Terrence, Cliff and Josie who knew we were interested in learning more. The tours were exceptional.


Very scenic drive from Willow Springs to Iga Warta.





Then 4 days on-site exploring Iga Warta.

Video showing our time in the kitchen learning how to make Kangaroo Lasagne. The Welcome Ceremony from Terry. Lots of time with Cliff exploring the gorge with the Rock Art, and detailed explanation. AND a very emotional Ochre Ceremony with Terry appreciated by all.


Welcome to Iga Warta and fabulous cultural experience video

Features Welcome to country from Terry, Art Painting site by Cliffe and Ochre Ceremony from Terry.


13th to 18th Apr Arkaroola

Well graded gravel roads from Iga Warta to Nepabunna and then to Arkaroola. Arkaroola is in the northern Flinders. Bar, restaurant, observatory, pool, motel rooms and houses, in addition to power and non-powered sites. Luxury!

And great drives and walks.



Easy walk up the ridge overlooking Arkaroola.




We drove Arkaroola to Yunta which is 300k+ of dirt. Of which 120k was heavy corrugations. A 9 hour trip. But the free camp area at Yunta was fabulous. Great pub across the road.



18th to 20th Apr Mt Gipps Station

Cut short our stay owing to heading for Mundi Mundi. But the hosts were just wonderful people to spent time with. Fair dinkum country folk eager to share their life, experiences. We will return. Sincere thanks Sam to yourself and family.

Facilities are first class.

Next time though we will seek a remote bush camp. Beautiful country. We look forward to parking somewhere on Mt Gipps, just us!





22nd to 26th Apr Trilby Station

Skipped this owing to Mundi Mundi music festival. Everyone who speaks of Trilby tells the story in the HIGHEST REGARD. On our bucket list!


20th to 25th Mundi Mundi Music Festival

A very long drive from Arkaroola to Broken Hill (Mt Gipps). 500k+ which is NOT a long drive for us now. BUT:

a. gravel ungraded

b. washouts on river crossings

c. heavy corrugations for 120k+ and despite lower tyre pressures we were down to 20kph in many sections. So we turned up the music and just sang and laughed. No point in destroying the Triton nor Van.

Ended up on the main highway and into Yunta. There's a free camp site there across from the pub. Great spot to camp. Clean toilets. Even better pub across the road.

Easy trip up to BH and to Mt Gipps.

Departed on the 20th for Mundi Mundi to catch up with our new music mates.

As the photos and video will show:

Dave, Julie, Steve and Gail are simply outstanding, fair dinkum people. So too with Theresa and Darren who joined our bunch. We are BLESSED to have formed a friendship with such, you're all always welcome at our place anytime you choose.

Key points from Mundi Mundi:

  • Great music

  • Everyone chilled and friendly

  • Despite 10,00 people+ so well organised

  • Our first AND definitely not our last country music festival

  • GREAT MUSIC!!

  • Loved the nights around our camp fire just chillin'

The photos and videos tell the story.

Sincere thanks to Dave, Julie, Steve and Gail for inviting us to join you all.

Lots of videos to process and upload.


UNDER CONSTRUCTION


And will return to BH to explore further. Very interesting town.


Mundi Mundi Undies

I did explain we met this A.mazing, A.wesome group of people from NSW in Iga Warta who invited us to join them at Mundi Mundi.

Unknown to Theresa and I they had an UNDIE fetish.

The video explains further!!!!


Love them all dearly, Dave and Julie, Steve and Gail. We will join them next time for such great fun.



25th overnight at Kidmans Camp - Bourke

An overnight. Unfinished business in Bourke. Great place to stay.


25th Apr to 1st May Charleville

We decided to visit Charleville to see where Theresa's mum and dad met. Weren't expecting such a welcoming and interesting town.

Stayed at the Charleville Bush Camp just outside town based on recommendations. superb camp site.

Visited the Church where they were married.

The pub where dances were held. No doubt they did so also.

Visited the Museum which was rich in history of the region.


Here's a quick video of St Mary's Church.


And the retro Hotel Coronis which is definitely worthy of a visit. Excellent meals by the way. And accommodation on the roof featuring an open air bath.



1st to 2nd May Chinchilla

Clover Hill station is a cattle (waghyu) and horse stud on the outskirts of Chinchilla. This is our second visit and not our last.

Spacious camp sites along the river.

Get there on Waghyu night to enjoy their BBQ. We had the Brisket and it was out of this world, so full of flavour.

Next visit we intend to do the farm tour with Steve and Ursula.



2nd to 6th May Mooloolooba

Not ready to go home. So decided to head for Mooloolooba. Our great mates Paul and Sue couldn't make it this week. Miss them enormously. Lots of time to catch up. This is a very special park for us.

  • Close to favorite restaurants

  • Close to great rides

  • Hear the surf at night

  • Not crowded



Trip Highlights

Everywhere was unique. Just loved it. Cannot wait to travel again!


And these!









283 views

Recent Posts

See All

Commentaires


20210703 NT Edith Falls.JPG

G'day from T and Mark!

We hope you enjoy our various blogs.

We made them for us actually as a summarised record of the hundreds of photos and lots of videos we make of our travels. 

bottom of page